2003

Robert R. Fenichel

Nepal (not Kathmandu), 2003

I spent most of October 2003 on a trek from Beni (on the Kali Gandaki) west to Darbang (1120m), then north along the Myagdi Khola up the gorge we had seen in 2000 to the Chhonbardan Glacier and French Pass (5300m [photo by Pasang Gelu Sherpa]) into Hidden Valley, then over Dhampus Pass (5160m) down to rejoin the Kali Gandaki at Marpha (2675m). We had a few days left before the flight out of Jomsom airport, so we spent three days in an extra loop north of Jomsom.

With the possible exception of the Rolwaling trek in 1979, this was the most spectacular trek I've been on in Nepal. The lowland areas were familiar (houses at Tarrakot and below Muri; view of Gurja Himal (7193m) from Darbang; agricultural areas near Darbang and Hamlung), but a little extra excitement was provided by our meeting with a Maoist insurgent tax collector who declined to be photographed but who was insistent upon a donation of 150 rupees (about $2), for which we received a formal receipt. A few days above Darbang, the gorge becomes wild and steep. Boghara (2100m; see also QQ_08) is the last village, and beyond the surreally-outfitted campsite at Dobang (2480m), the next permanent inhabitants are at Marpha. Two days above Dobang, one has traversed the tundra to the first of several camps overshadowed by Dhaulagiri (8167m; see also QS_04 and QS_06). Several days are spent in the gorge, at Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4510m; the photo is a 270° composite panorama), and on the glacier, and then beyond French Pass there is the sudden flat expanse of Hidden Valley (5000m), with Dhaulagiri still visible. Dhampus Pass gives one a close look at Tukuche (6920m) and the beginning of the gradual descent (see also QY_08 and QY_19) to Marpha.

North of Jomsom, our route began and ended along the Kali Gandaki (see also RF_06), but then turned up the little-visited Panda Khola to get to Lupra (3060m; see also RC_02). From Lupra we saw the sun set on an unnamed peak, then moved over a ridge (3695m) to the ancient village of Jharkot (3470m; see also RD_08 and RD_13). At Jharkot we met the around-Annapurna hordes, and we descended with them through Kagbeni back to Jomsom. Kagbeni (on the Kali Gandaki at 2840m) is at least as ancient as Jharkot, but ease of access has led to subtle modernizations here and there.

GPS waypoints collected during this trek are posted on a separate page.